CHAPTER 6. THE "OUTDOOR CAPITAL" |
Clan Cameron
Gathering Guests will, if they have not already done so, discover upon
their arrival in Lochaber that the area is promoted as the “Outdoor
Capital of the UK.” This
designation is accurate, since Lochaber is in many ways perfectly suited
to a variety of activities, and its natural resources are for the most
part unspoiled. Although some
might argue otherwise, the most popular activity in this category would
be hiking (hill walking, trekking, mountaineering…)
From the southwest boundary of Lochaber, near Glencoe, all the
way up through the various scenic and historic glens, and along the
beautiful loch sides up to northern boundary along Loch Lochy, there are
trails everywhere. The most
famous one is the West Highland Way, a 95 mile trek from Milngavie to
Fort William. This is a walk
that only well prepared men, women and children should attempt, and is
definitely one where numerous nights will be spent tent camping.
Guide books are available everywhere, and there are numerous
resources available on the Internet.
The WHW offers scenery that is absolutely impossible to
experience in a car, on a train or while riding a motor coach, and
finishing the hike is a justifiably so bragging point for many.
Equally so, the relatively new Great Glen Way runs from Fort
William up to Inverness, a total of 73 miles.
Whereas the WHW comes into “Cameron Country,” the GGW cuts
through it, running right outside the entrance to Achnacarry.
This is another serious hike, and as with its “cousin” the
WHW, should only be attempted by well prepared, experienced hikers.
On the other hand, there are portions of each of these trails
that may be tackled as day hikes; consult Internet and printed resources
for details. Speaking of day
hikes, there are many to consider. Details
of the trek up to Ben Nevis’ summit are widely known, and hikers
should come moderately prepared for cold and wet weather (hiring a local
guide is also an option for this and other moderate hikes).
Ascending to the 4406’ peak of The Ben is typically a day long
effort (leave eight hours, round-trip, to be safe) but other options are
available for those with less time available.
Nearby, in Glen Nevis, there is the Forest Walk (offering scenic
photo opportunities with Ben Nevis in the background) or the slightly
more ambitious trek to the Upper Falls of Nevis – An Steall Bhan.
This two hour, give or take, hike offers the scenic reward of
viewing the beautiful white gushing cascade at its end, and incredible
scenery along the way. As
with most hikes in Lochaber, adequate footwear and outerwear are
recommended. There are a
variety of other meaningful hikes. A
stroll along the old tow path of the Caledonian Canal (now part of the
Great Glen Way) offers a quiet view of inner Lochaber that tourists
rarely observe. Near
Achnacarry there are numerous options as well.
Imagine strolling down the pathway that your Clan Cameron
ancestors may have walked as a regular route to market and their homes.
A stroll down the Dark Mile (from near Clunes west past the
Witch’s Pool, ending at Loch Arkaig) actually runs nearly two miles
each way – the “mile” term here is misleading – and may be
accomplished in less than two hours.
There is also the short walk (perhaps around one mile total) that
leaves the Clan Cameron Museum, heads across the open field to the east
and runs northward along the River Arkaig through the historic Beech
Avenue that Donald Cameron, XIX Chief of Clan Cameron planted in 1745.
Others might wish to consider the relatively new “Fairy
Trail” that departs from a small roadside parking area on the B8005
(the only such parking area in the area) between Gairlochy and
Achnacarry. A graveled trail
gently leads down to the western shore of Loch Lochy and walkers wander
northwards along the shore to a delightful destination – a huge
display of fairy dolls, painted stones and related items (hundreds in
number). This walk is
especially popular with, and not that difficult for, parents with young
children (even strollers are not an uncommon sight).
These are just a few of the options available for walking within
Lochaber. All it takes is a
local map (or copy of Virtual Lochaber) and a keen eye for one to find a
location to explore. Regardless
of where one might head to, and what the end goal is, do take the time
to pause, look about and enjoy the journey getting there. Mountaineering is
also popular in Lochaber, and brings ascending the peaks to an extreme
level. This is done in all
seasons, and ice climbing is one facet of the sport.
However, the focus of this piece is for casual visitors in the
summer. The subject of
serious mountaineering is best left to the experts, though there is –
no doubt – elementary instruction possible in the vicinity of Glen
Nevis. The same may be said
for taking advantage of the local mountains for skiing.
Those venturing to the West Highlands in the winter will have to
consult other resources for information, but they may be assured of
numerous options and outstanding runs from Aonach Mor and some
neighboring areas. Leaving the
hiking boots behind, there is also the option of bicycling to consider.
Many of the aforementioned trails are also accessible to bikes,
either your own set of wheels or those rented locally (Fort William has
numerous leasing options). On
a regular basis the Mountain Bike World Cup comes to Fort William.
The trails in Leanachan Forest (north of Fort William, off the
A82, south of Spean Bridge, on the lower slopes of Aonach Mor) are said
to be hard to beat, for the serious off-road biker.
There are a variety of way marked routes, but as with the hiking
details previously, one should come well equipped for any eventuality.
Some cycle enthusiasts make the trek from Fort William to
Achnacarry, but this is approximately 13 miles (depends of which route
is taken) each way. This is
especially attractive to those not wishing to rent a car or taxi in Fort
William (and surrounding communities) but still wishing to visit
Achnacarry. The previously
mentioned Great Glen Way is the path of choice to Achnacarry, as one
will have few possibilities of encounters with automobiles.
Nothing
“says” Scotland like the pastime of golf.
There is one option in Lochaber, the Fort William Golf Club.
Situated near the base of Ben Nevis, along the A82 in Torlundy
(between Fort William and Spean Bridge) the 18 hole course was
established in 1976. While
it lacks much of what the famed courses elsewhere in Scotland have, the
FWGC makes up for this with the breathtaking local scenery.
Many local hotels and B&Bs offer either complimentary rounds
on this course (some even offer “unrestricted free access”) or will
assist in booking tee times. Water sports –
how could they not also be popular in beautiful Lochaber?
A number of scenic rafting tours are offered at numerous
locations, for those looking for a tranquil experience on some of the
local rivers. Sea kayaking
is also offered at numerous venues near Fort William, with guided trips
and instruction available. Those
experienced with this mode of recreation will probably come equipped,
but for the new-comer there are wet suit and kayak hires locally.
Rentals are typically for one-half day, day long or multi-day,
depending on how ambitious one’s interests are.
One fantastic launch point, accessed from the south shore of the
River Lochy, near Torcastle, is especially popular and offers that
previously mentioned tranquility of inner Lochaber.
There also seems to be a launch point at Gairlochy, but one might
need to locally coordinate with the lockkeeper there, who might require
a portage. In this and many
instances, it might be advisable to find a local guide to coordinate
details or at least do one’s “homework” prior to hitting the
waters. One final outdoor
activity may be examined. It
encompasses portions of all the aforementioned activities, after a
fashion – wildlife spotting. After
all, one might observe creatures while hiking, bicycling or kayaking.
Lochaber offers a huge variety of birds, animals and insects for
those enthusiastic in these fields.
Insects are best left to the experts, but one may be certain to
spot at least one – the pesky Midge Fly!
Other than this, it is said that the rare Chequered Skipper
Butterfly now calls Lochaber and the Great Glen its “stronghold.”
In fact, Loch Arkaig is said to be the “core area” for what
is called the most famous butterfly in all of Scotland.
Going a wee bit larger, the stunning Golden Eagle and Peregrine
Falcon are at the top of the local food chain when it comes to birds.
There are so many others to spot, including Buzzards, Black
Grouse, Goosanders, Mute Swans and Great Crested Glebes, to name but a
few. There are also four
footed (or finned) creatures hiding and roaming here and there,
including Common and Grey Seals along most sea lochs, with Red Squirrels
and Pine Martens filtered throughout the local woodlands.
One will also see a multitude of domesticated animals, including
Highland Cattle and Sheep, but these will quickly be taken for granted,
except for the younger visitors to Lochaber.
Last but certainly not least, there is the majestic Red Deer.
Without a doubt they may be sighted near Achnacarry and in other
portions of Lochaber. However,
one must be relatively ready with their camera to capture a photo –
they are (understandably) nervous creatures.
Predictably, a deer will gaze into the camera lens with their
huge eyes, almost as if they realize the attention trained upon them;
tread softly and have the camera at the ready.
A few “wildlife cruises” are also available in Lochaber, for
those looking to give their feet a well deserved rest. When visiting
Lochaber, one must come prepared to thoroughly enjoy the outdoors.
As much as it might pain travelers, packing a pair of boots or
other footwear is essential. While
they are typically associated with mud and water, boots symbolize
something much more in the West Highlands.
With boots must also come appropriate socks; they are necessarily
intertwined with one another. There
is also outerwear to consider. Two
good suggestions would be to “think” waterproof and to consider
dressing in layers. If one
comes ill-equipped, there are outdoor stores in the Fort William area
that will meet any need, but expect to pay a slight premium for this
convenience. A willingness to
embrace nature, breathe deep the fresh air, and soak in the glory of
Cameron Country are not options while visiting – they are necessities.
Leave behind the urge, from every day life, of traveling from
Point A to Point B as swiftly as possible.
Enjoy the journey along the way and discover a slice of life that
your ancestors surely felt. Come
prepared and of a mind that the great outdoors is calling; answer the
call in beautiful Lochaber.
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