CHAPTER 6.  THE  "OUTDOOR CAPITAL"

Clan Cameron Gathering Guests will, if they have not already done so, discover upon their arrival in Lochaber that the area is promoted as the “Outdoor Capital of the UK.”  This designation is accurate, since Lochaber is in many ways perfectly suited to a variety of activities, and its natural resources are for the most part unspoiled. 

Although some might argue otherwise, the most popular activity in this category would be hiking (hill walking, trekking, mountaineering…)  From the southwest boundary of Lochaber, near Glencoe, all the way up through the various scenic and historic glens, and along the beautiful loch sides up to northern boundary along Loch Lochy, there are trails everywhere.  The most famous one is the West Highland Way, a 95 mile trek from Milngavie to Fort William.  This is a walk that only well prepared men, women and children should attempt, and is definitely one where numerous nights will be spent tent camping.  Guide books are available everywhere, and there are numerous resources available on the Internet.  The WHW offers scenery that is absolutely impossible to experience in a car, on a train or while riding a motor coach, and finishing the hike is a justifiably so bragging point for many.  Equally so, the relatively new Great Glen Way runs from Fort William up to Inverness, a total of 73 miles.  Whereas the WHW comes into “Cameron Country,” the GGW cuts through it, running right outside the entrance to Achnacarry.  This is another serious hike, and as with its “cousin” the WHW, should only be attempted by well prepared, experienced hikers.  On the other hand, there are portions of each of these trails that may be tackled as day hikes; consult Internet and printed resources for details.

Speaking of day hikes, there are many to consider.  Details of the trek up to Ben Nevis’ summit are widely known, and hikers should come moderately prepared for cold and wet weather (hiring a local guide is also an option for this and other moderate hikes).  Ascending to the 4406’ peak of The Ben is typically a day long effort (leave eight hours, round-trip, to be safe) but other options are available for those with less time available.  Nearby, in Glen Nevis, there is the Forest Walk (offering scenic photo opportunities with Ben Nevis in the background) or the slightly more ambitious trek to the Upper Falls of Nevis – An Steall Bhan.  This two hour, give or take, hike offers the scenic reward of viewing the beautiful white gushing cascade at its end, and incredible scenery along the way.  As with most hikes in Lochaber, adequate footwear and outerwear are recommended.

There are a variety of other meaningful hikes.  A stroll along the old tow path of the Caledonian Canal (now part of the Great Glen Way) offers a quiet view of inner Lochaber that tourists rarely observe.  Near Achnacarry there are numerous options as well.  Imagine strolling down the pathway that your Clan Cameron ancestors may have walked as a regular route to market and their homes.  A stroll down the Dark Mile (from near Clunes west past the Witch’s Pool, ending at Loch Arkaig) actually runs nearly two miles each way – the “mile” term here is misleading – and may be accomplished in less than two hours.  There is also the short walk (perhaps around one mile total) that leaves the Clan Cameron Museum, heads across the open field to the east and runs northward along the River Arkaig through the historic Beech Avenue that Donald Cameron, XIX Chief of Clan Cameron planted in 1745.  Others might wish to consider the relatively new “Fairy Trail” that departs from a small roadside parking area on the B8005 (the only such parking area in the area) between Gairlochy and Achnacarry.  A graveled trail gently leads down to the western shore of Loch Lochy and walkers wander northwards along the shore to a delightful destination – a huge display of fairy dolls, painted stones and related items (hundreds in number).  This walk is especially popular with, and not that difficult for, parents with young children (even strollers are not an uncommon sight).  These are just a few of the options available for walking within Lochaber.  All it takes is a local map (or copy of Virtual Lochaber) and a keen eye for one to find a location to explore.  Regardless of where one might head to, and what the end goal is, do take the time to pause, look about and enjoy the journey getting there.

Mountaineering is also popular in Lochaber, and brings ascending the peaks to an extreme level.  This is done in all seasons, and ice climbing is one facet of the sport.  However, the focus of this piece is for casual visitors in the summer.  The subject of serious mountaineering is best left to the experts, though there is – no doubt – elementary instruction possible in the vicinity of Glen Nevis.  The same may be said for taking advantage of the local mountains for skiing.  Those venturing to the West Highlands in the winter will have to consult other resources for information, but they may be assured of numerous options and outstanding runs from Aonach Mor and some neighboring areas.

Leaving the hiking boots behind, there is also the option of bicycling to consider.  Many of the aforementioned trails are also accessible to bikes, either your own set of wheels or those rented locally (Fort William has numerous leasing options).  On a regular basis the Mountain Bike World Cup comes to Fort William.  The trails in Leanachan Forest (north of Fort William, off the A82, south of Spean Bridge, on the lower slopes of Aonach Mor) are said to be hard to beat, for the serious off-road biker.  There are a variety of way marked routes, but as with the hiking details previously, one should come well equipped for any eventuality.  Some cycle enthusiasts make the trek from Fort William to Achnacarry, but this is approximately 13 miles (depends of which route is taken) each way.  This is especially attractive to those not wishing to rent a car or taxi in Fort William (and surrounding communities) but still wishing to visit Achnacarry.  The previously mentioned Great Glen Way is the path of choice to Achnacarry, as one will have few possibilities of encounters with automobiles. 

Nothing “says” Scotland like the pastime of golf.  There is one option in Lochaber, the Fort William Golf Club.  Situated near the base of Ben Nevis, along the A82 in Torlundy (between Fort William and Spean Bridge) the 18 hole course was established in 1976.  While it lacks much of what the famed courses elsewhere in Scotland have, the FWGC makes up for this with the breathtaking local scenery.  Many local hotels and B&Bs offer either complimentary rounds on this course (some even offer “unrestricted free access”) or will assist in booking tee times.

Water sports – how could they not also be popular in beautiful Lochaber?  A number of scenic rafting tours are offered at numerous locations, for those looking for a tranquil experience on some of the local rivers.  Sea kayaking is also offered at numerous venues near Fort William, with guided trips and instruction available.  Those experienced with this mode of recreation will probably come equipped, but for the new-comer there are wet suit and kayak hires locally.  Rentals are typically for one-half day, day long or multi-day, depending on how ambitious one’s interests are.  One fantastic launch point, accessed from the south shore of the River Lochy, near Torcastle, is especially popular and offers that previously mentioned tranquility of inner Lochaber.  There also seems to be a launch point at Gairlochy, but one might need to locally coordinate with the lockkeeper there, who might require a portage.  In this and many instances, it might be advisable to find a local guide to coordinate details or at least do one’s “homework” prior to hitting the waters.

One final outdoor activity may be examined.  It encompasses portions of all the aforementioned activities, after a fashion – wildlife spotting.  After all, one might observe creatures while hiking, bicycling or kayaking.  Lochaber offers a huge variety of birds, animals and insects for those enthusiastic in these fields.  Insects are best left to the experts, but one may be certain to spot at least one – the pesky Midge Fly!  Other than this, it is said that the rare Chequered Skipper Butterfly now calls Lochaber and the Great Glen its “stronghold.”  In fact, Loch Arkaig is said to be the “core area” for what is called the most famous butterfly in all of Scotland.  Going a wee bit larger, the stunning Golden Eagle and Peregrine Falcon are at the top of the local food chain when it comes to birds.  There are so many others to spot, including Buzzards, Black Grouse, Goosanders, Mute Swans and Great Crested Glebes, to name but a few.  There are also four footed (or finned) creatures hiding and roaming here and there, including Common and Grey Seals along most sea lochs, with Red Squirrels and Pine Martens filtered throughout the local woodlands.  One will also see a multitude of domesticated animals, including Highland Cattle and Sheep, but these will quickly be taken for granted, except for the younger visitors to Lochaber.  Last but certainly not least, there is the majestic Red Deer.  Without a doubt they may be sighted near Achnacarry and in other portions of Lochaber.  However, one must be relatively ready with their camera to capture a photo – they are (understandably) nervous creatures.  Predictably, a deer will gaze into the camera lens with their huge eyes, almost as if they realize the attention trained upon them; tread softly and have the camera at the ready.  A few “wildlife cruises” are also available in Lochaber, for those looking to give their feet a well deserved rest.

When visiting Lochaber, one must come prepared to thoroughly enjoy the outdoors.  As much as it might pain travelers, packing a pair of boots or other footwear is essential.  While they are typically associated with mud and water, boots symbolize something much more in the West Highlands.  With boots must also come appropriate socks; they are necessarily intertwined with one another.  There is also outerwear to consider.  Two good suggestions would be to “think” waterproof and to consider dressing in layers.  If one comes ill-equipped, there are outdoor stores in the Fort William area that will meet any need, but expect to pay a slight premium for this convenience.

A willingness to embrace nature, breathe deep the fresh air, and soak in the glory of Cameron Country are not options while visiting – they are necessities.  Leave behind the urge, from every day life, of traveling from Point A to Point B as swiftly as possible.  Enjoy the journey along the way and discover a slice of life that your ancestors surely felt.  Come prepared and of a mind that the great outdoors is calling; answer the call in beautiful Lochaber.